An Aussie in Awa: The Shikoku 88-temple Pilgrimage

Spread across the island of Shikoku are 88 Buddhist temples located at sites apparently visited by a monk named Kobo Daishi in the late 700s. Kobo Daishi was said to have been born in Shikoku (actually at the site of Temple 75, Zentsu-ji) though he travelled to China as a young man where he studied esoterica and religion. Upon his return to Japan, he was instrumental in educating others about Buddhism and is said to have established several of the temples on this route.

Statue of Kobe Daishi at Temple 17

It is considered lucky and a demonstration of great faith for "pilgrims" to pray at each temple. The order in which you visit the temples is considered irrelevant these days as is your mode of transport. In the past however, it was said that the temples in each of Shikoku's four provinces represented a different stage on the path to enlightenment - awakening, discipline, enlightenment and nirvana. It also used to be that pilgrims would walk from temple to temple - a journey that would take even the most zealous pilgrim close to 3 months to complete - but these days pilgrims often drive or bus between temples and visit them on a staggered schedule rather than all in one go.

Upon arrival at the temple, a pilgrim is supposed to wash his hands and face by using the little "spoons" to scoop up water from a small well.

Pilgrims are known in Japan as "henro" and can often be spotted wearing a white cotton vest over their clothes, a conical straw hat, clutching at prayer beads and rocking a hiking stick. While it is popular for people to don these outfits (mostly to indicate to others that you are a "henro"), they are not required garb. Each item can generally be purchased at the office/shop of every temple. Also for sale at the temple shop are fabric bound books that you can use to record your journey. Once you have purchased the book, it is possible to collect (for a price of course - roughly 300yen) calligraphies or "stamps" from each temple that you visit.

I bought myself one of these books and have been visiting as many temples as I can in order to collect the stamps! Of 88 temples, I have made it to roughly 35 of them. I have almost completed the list of temples in Tokushima, but I still need to visit those situated in the other prefectures - Kochi, Kagawa and Ehime. I am a casual henro - I don't wear the outfit, I drive from place to place on random days when I can find the time and I don't perform any prayers at each temple. Instead, I like to reflect on the beauty of the temple grounds, take pictures and watch the temple staff draw their calligraphies in my book. My goal is to complete the pilgrimage before I leave Japan, which gives me just over a year to visit some 50+ temples!

You can ring this giant bell before commencing your prayers to signal your arrival at the temple - but so far I haven't been brave enough to draw the extra attention to myself!